A first 006 diesel - painting

One of the disadvantages of the way this loco was built is that the one-piece construction makes painting just that little bit trickier. Masking tape was used inside the cab to protect the motor, and along the frame sides and underneath to stop paint getting into the bearings and onto the wheels. Then I squirted Hycote white acrylic car body primer, decanted from an aerosol, to the body using my Badger 200NH, primer makes a horrible mess inside a 'brush and the 200 is easier to clean that my other 'brushes.

Next I painted the engine Humbrol 3 Gloss Green. I chose green to give the engine a Ruston/Petter/Lister look even though it's none of those, remember the bonnet and engine detail are from a Matchbox Drott Excavator;

Once the green had dried I masked off the engine and sprayed the main body colour, Vallejo 70.926 Red;

This was, to be frank, a pain to apply. I probably should have given the loco an undercoat of orange first as I have done previously when using red, and the finish needed rubbing down in a couple of places. It's not my best paint job by a long mark, but right now I want this loco finished.

Once the red had dried for a few days I masked the body off ready to spray the footplate. Before reaching for the black (my usual Vallejo 70.862 Black Grey) I sprayed some varnish around the edges of the masking tape, to try to prevent any paint creeping under the tape. At the same time I sprayed the roof and exhaust.

On removing the masking tape I found that, despite my best efforts, there was a little paint creep on the left hand cab side and rear, removed with a damp paintbrush and a cocktail stick. Once I'd done that I masked off the cab window frames and brush painted them;

Once the paint had dried the masking around the windows was removed and the loco given a coat of gloss varnish to protect the paint whilst I removed the rest of the masking around the frames and brush painted the frame sides being careful not to get any paint into the bearings. Then, with a little masking tape over the axle ends and the exposed sections of the wheels the loco could be given a squirt of Testors Dullcoat;

I gave the engine a couple of washes of Citadel 'Nuln Oil' whilst I was painting the bodywork, which has toned down the green quite nicely, I was worried about the green and red clashing. The next job will be to glaze the cab, then add numberplates, the exhaust pipe and the cab roof.

Paul.

Invicta Model Works RAF Calshot open wagon - adding the bodywork

As you'd expect the floor is just glued on top of the chassis, then the ends can be fitted and checked with a square;

Here's one end, with the uprights glued in place;

There's a little filling to be done where the uprights locate, not really an issue, and the uprights slot into holes in the chassis top.

The second end was a little wobbly so I taped it to the square whilst it set;

I used more tape when I added the sides;

Finally the hinge detail was glued into place, and the coupling hooks (pre-bent from copper) cyano'd into the buffer shanks;

So far everything has fitted together with no real issues.

Primer next along with some minor detailing.

Paul.

Invicta Model Works RAF Calshot open wagon - building the chassis

To start with two sideframes are slotted and glued into the main floor, then there's a couple of lengths of material to glue across the ends of the frames;

Next the lower frame is glued into place, giving the impression that the chassis is built from channel, followed by the axlebox outer frames;

There's a piece to sit above the coupling shank that needs to be fitted, once the glue dried I filed the end flat then glued the buffer face in place. Before I fitted it though I filed a curve onto the flat face.

It needs to be noted which way the lower frame is fitted, this wagon has brakes on one side only and the two axlebox sides are different to allow for this, and there's a slot in the lower frame to locate the lever guard.

The chassis frame assembled, with the brake lever and guard in place;

And the underside;

There's no brake shoe supplied, whether I fit one or not I have yet to decide, this is after all designed for garden use rather than an exact scale model. Wheel bearings are brass eyelets, which I'll fit, along with the axlebox covers, after painting.

Body next.

Paul.