The first job was to fold up the two cross beams, different length beams are provided for either OO or EM/P4. The instructions tell you to assemble these together with the shoes then solder the completed assembly to the chassis, I chose to solder them directly to the underside of the sole bars, lines are half-etched on the bottom of the solebars to aid placement. It took a few attempts to get them central and square, I tacked one side and kept adjusting until I was happy. Perhaps if I build some more of these I'll make up a little jig.
Once I was happy with the beams the shoe assemblies, which simply fold up into a two piece lamination, could be sprung into place and soldered up (click on the photo for a bigger image);
The holes etched into the hanger allow the enclosed box which results from the hanger being fitted to be filled with liquid lead.
The brake levers were soldered in place next after forming to shape, note that these attach on a tag above the pivot unlike conventional wagon brakes. There's nothing in the instructions about forming the levers, they just show the lever being straight, so I worked from photographs. After fitting the levers I folded up the lever guides and soldered them under the bufferbeams;
Note the stepped hanger behind the guide (admittedly quite difficult to see in the above photo), I assume that this was for chaining the wagon to the track when tipping, can anyone confirm this?
There's still a few more parts to be added, but they're coming along nicely and I'm really enjoying the build;
Paul.
Wow!! What a fantastic model.
ReplyDeleteThanks Chas.
ReplyDeleteThere's still more work to be done but they're getting steadily closer to the painting stage.
Oh my word, that's a fantastic bit of soldering! I don't know if I'd ever be brave enough to try anything like that!
ReplyDeleteThanks.
ReplyDeleteThe soldering wasn't that difficult really. The kit is nickel silver which is a much nicer material to solder than brass. I usually use 188 degree solder for structural work and then add detail with 145 ('step soldering'), the lower melting point requiring less heat therefore less chance of unsoldering critical joints. However, 188 flows better than 145, so I try to use it wherever possible. I haven't needed to use 145 at all on this.
I use Eileen's Strong Flux exclusively, which is 12% phosphoric acid rather than the more usual 9%, I find that it performs better. I also buy my solder in wire form rather than stick, and I cut off small chips and put them exactly where I want them on the joint, this saves a lot of cleaning as I can closely control both the amount of solder used and where its used resulting in a neater joint.