Saturday, 12 July 2014

Brian Madge Alice class Hunslet part 8 - handrails and couplings.

I wanted nice discreet Bemo style couplings for this model, large couplers would look wrong and spoil the lines of the loco. Mark fitted Greenwich etched couplers to his, which suit this size of loco well, but I wanted something even smaller especially as I intend fitting wooden side buffers as well.
I chose RT Models etched couplings, without loops, soldered to the bufferbeams by bending the tail of the coupling through 90 degrees to give a large surface area for the joint;


 Another thing that I wanted was fine handrails and stanchions (knobs), so I'm using Markits 'N' gauge stanchions and .33mm wire. These are straight rather than shaped but I feel that standard 4mm scale stanchions can look overlarge on such a small locomotive.
Before the boiler is fitted to the frames I decided to mark out and drill out the holes. The first job was to measure the height of the stanchions, where they seat on the saddletank, using the drawing from the Cliff Thomas book. Then the measurement could be transferred to the model using a scribing block;


The casting is sat on a parallel block for convenience.
Then the hole positions could be added, a scale 3" from the tank ends, and the holes drilled .4mm. To make sure that all of the stanchions sit at the same angle on the tank edge I sat the casting in a V block and used a pin vice held upright to drill 4 holes at 45 degrees;


Velinheli's handrail continues around the chimney, so a length of .33mm wire was bent to suit, threaded through the stanchions, and the whole assembly taped in place, using plasticard offcuts to space the handrail away from the boiler, like so;


Then I used a tiny amount of solder paint and a light touch with the iron to solder the wire into the stanchions (but not the stanchions into the casting!). After trimming the excess wire away from the firebox end the handrail can be sprung out and put away until after the model is painted.

Here's the boiler sat on the footplate, handrail in place;


Note that the rivet detail has been removed from the boiler sides, the rivet pattern on Velinheli differs from the casting and will be added after priming using Archers transfers.

Obviously I've used a few tools here that won't be in many modellers toolbox, the only reason that I own V blocks, parallels etc. is because I once worked in machine shops. Please remember that this blog is about how I do things, not about how you should work!

Paul

6 comments:

  1. That coupling looks great, and I must remember for next time (I'm sure I'll build the cabless version at some point) just to bend the tail at 90 degrees and solder it on, rather than spending hours drilling through the buffer beam to create a slot.

    That V block looks a life safe for drilling the holes accurately. It took me three attempts to get just one of the holes somewhere near where I wanted it and at the right angle for the stanchion.

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    1. Thanks Mark, I have to say that I'm rather happy with the couplings. I did file a notch in under the coupling to act as a fold line, which was strengthened after bending with a fillet of solder.

      As for V blocks, I'm sure that something similar could be knocked up from plasticard. I don't like wonky handrails!

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  2. You've done a beautiful job. Few things, apart from wonky funnels, give the game away more than dodgy handrails. As usual, your precise and careful methods carry the day :-)

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  3. Thanks Iain.
    After the hassle that I had fitting handrails to the Austerity I'm rather relieved that this time fitting has gone to plan first time!

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  4. Lovely Paul - I can't wait to see it finished, perhaps visiting Grindley Brook again at some point?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks James. Finishing will take some time, still plenty of work to do. A visit to Grindley would be nice, my locos rarely see plain track let alone layouts.

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