Nigel Lawton OO9 Simplex part 5 - starting the bodywork.

'Bodywork' is perhaps not the right word to use regarding Simplexes, as they basically consist of a steel frame with the mechanical components bolted to it. A simple bonnet covers the engine and fuel tank, and if the driver is lucky they might get a rude cab to protect them from the elements. Form definitely following function.

The body is etched in nickel silver, not brass as stated in the instructions although the early kits did have brass bodies. This to me is a good thing, n/s is easier to solder than brass and is stronger. (Nickel silver is a pig to photograph though!). Much use is made of sacrificial tabs (small tabs which aid assembly but are cut away later on), for example the entire middle of the upper frame is sacrificial, helping to keep the shape of what would otherwise be quite a delicate etching.

The upper frame is where we start, first job is to fold up the starting handle bracket and some tiny brackets which sit above the frame, these are triple folds, fiddly but easy enough. Then one frame side can be bent to shape and tacked in place (fold lines on the outside, not made clear in the instructions). Sacrificial tabs hold the side frame to the upper frame. Here's the frame with one side tacked on with the other in front;

The frame sides are extended at each end, the extension being cut away after the end pieces are fitted.
The lower parts of the frame sides, which form the bottom of the 'U' channel, are tacked in place next. Again these are held in place with tabs. In the photo below the lower frame on the nearest side is tacked in place whilst the other sits in the foreground:

Make sure that they are square before putting the iron to the job. I didn't and had to do a bit of re-soldering...
The frame ends can now be looked at. These are test-fitted (more tabs and slots), making sure that everything sits as it should, removed, then the frames are soldered up and the inner tabs are removed, by bending and filing, a rare use for a riffler file. Then the ends can be tacked in place, checked for square, and finish soldered. Below can be seen one end tacked on and the other in front;

The tapered sections between the top and bottom strips represent the lower part of the sandboxes.
Now all outer tabs can be removed, including the 'sideframe extensions'.There's a strip to be soldered on the ends, a simple matter of tinning whilst still on the etch then sweating in place;

Remember that clicking on a pic. gives a larger image.
I'm trying something slighty different with this build. I'm still using my 25w Antex but instead of the 2.3mm chisel tip (number 50) that I usually use I'm trying out a .5mm conical tip (number 55), ordered at the same time as my replacement element. So far I'm finding it usefull for picking up tiny amounts of solder on the tip as well as getting into tight corners. I'm also using a syringe fitted with a blunt needle (from Eileen's) to apply flux rather than a brush, and idea gleaned from an article in Finescale Railway Modelling Review issue 1. It takes a steady hand and a bit of practice not to squirt acid across the bench, but once mastered it is possible to apply tiny amounts of flux where needed. The only problem is that I still haven't mastered it...

All soldering done with 188 degree solder and Eileen's Strong Flux.
Bonnet next.

Paul.