Nigel Lawton OO9 Simplex part 6 - cross members and bonnet.

There are two cross members to be folded up which sit across the frames. On the prototype these support the engine, gearbox and of course the bonnet. The rear crossmember also incudes the drivers platform and control levers. Both need folding to shape, I used a 2" Hold+Fold, being very carefull not to damage the very delicate control levers. Once the 'U' channel is formed the bracket on the front and the control levers on the rear can be folded up. The longer of the two levers is very fragile, having a half-etched section which allows it to be folded back on itself so that it sits in the middle of the crossmember. A little solder strengthens things up, and spares are included for both parts. There are two half-etched lugs on the rear of the drivers platform which need bending down. Both crossmembers made up;

The cross members sit on those triple folded brackets on top of the frames. These have holes etched in them, which are opened up to accept .4mm wire. Brass wire is then soldered in and cut down to provide location pegs. Etched holes in the crossmembers locate on the pegs and once everything is lined up the crossmembers can be soldered in place;

Note that the frames have a front and rear and solder the crossmember with the drivers platform at the rear.

Now the instructions point towards the bonnet. In the photo below note the thin strips in the middle, top and bottom, these are the bonnet support straps. These are half etched, and if not reinforced rather fragile. So with that in mind they have 'strengtheners' attached to the outer ends, which are tinned whilst the whole bonnet is still on the main etch, folded back and sweated to the rear of support straps thereby doubling up the material.

The two tiny pieces of etch are hinge detail, tinned whilst still attached to the main etch.
There are a series of half-etched lines on the underside of the bonnet, to help form the curves. I rolled the bonnet curves around a 4.5mm drill, using fingers, until they matched the ends;

Then with the bonnet upright on a piece of Tufnol the ends can be soldered in place, they sit inside the main bonnet top/sides flush with the ends;

Two attempts were needed until I was happy, re-working with round-nosed pliers. The beauty of soldering is that any joint can be unsoldered and re-done. Here's the bonnet sitting on the frames, tabs locate in half-etched grooves in the cross members, it won't be attached until later in the build;

Some filling is needed around the curves still, and there's the half-etched hinge detail yet to be added, which sits in the middle of the bonnet locating in the groove.

I still haven't quite mastered applying flux with a needle, but for now I persevere (even if I do reach for the brush on occasion).

Paul.